25 Restaurants In Oaxaca You Should Try

Sunlight illuminates the patio and plants at one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca.

Oaxaca has long been celebrated for its rich culture. And one place that is best expressed is in its food. The best restaurants in Oaxaca have discovered a way to bring exquisite modernity to the traditional food of the region. 

That’s not to say this list is simply one of modern, high-end Oaxaca restaurants. It’s a list that spans a range of the best places to eat in Oaxaca. It’s also not a definitive list, but rather a guide to where I found the best food. In fact, I often skipped the most popular, touristic places that are recommended elsewhere.

I’ve divided the list into sections, but that’s not to say they don’t overlap. Many of the fine dining restaurants serve traditional food, for instance. And you’ll find vegetarian options at nearly all of the restaurants. Let’s look at where to eat in Oaxaca.

Traditional Oaxaca Restaurants

These Oaxaca restaurants serve an array of traditional food at affordable prices. The food is often simple, rustic, and homemade.

Coquina Hua Xha

Location: Macedonio Alcalá #902-C

As I walked past the open doors, the aromas emanating from this small restaurant convinced me to eat here. Sarita and Antonio, the husband and wife team behind Coquina Hua Xha, are a delight to watch. 

Antonio greets and serves the customers while Sarita works her magic in the open-style kitchen. She periodically selects herbs from a large clay plate to add to the various pots she has cooking on the stove.

After taking my order, Antonio walks into the kitchen and she holds up a spoonful of sauce that’s been simmering long before I arrived. He tastes it and gives her an approving nod before they both go back to work.

A large plate of herbs sits on the counter of the open kitchen at Coquina Hua Xha, a place to eat in Oaxaca

The cozy space feels like sitting at your friend’s house for lunch or dinner. Even the way Sarita moves about the kitchen is similar to a home chef. And when she opens the stainless double door fridge, the well-organized shelves come into view. They are full of fresh ingredients and containers of what I can only imagine are incredibly flavorful sauces and stews.

The dish of mole amarillo that I ordered had a depth of flavor. The sauce was the consistency of soup, which proved to be a delightful combination with the fluffy, perfectly cooked rice. It was full of vegetables – potatoes, carrots, and squash and topped with a leg and thigh of chicken. I highly recommend checking out the homemade flavors coming out of this kitchen.

Comedor Istmeño Casa Juchitán

Location: Porfirio Díaz #601

You’ll know you’ve arrived at this local Oaxaca restaurant when you see the vibrant traditional clothes hanging at the entrance. It’s just another clue of the truly homemade cuisine created inside. Located on the enclosed front patio of a house in Centro, the open kitchen is run by two women who I assume are mother and daughter.

I wasn’t offered a visual menu, but rather a verbal offering of a few items from the Istmo region of Oaxaca. I decided on ganaches which are crispy corn discs. They are topped with finely shredded beef, salty cheese, and served with shredded cabbage and carrots. On the table was a basic but tasty salsa roja.

I later noticed others with more complete meals which didn’t seem to be on my verbal menu. So I’m not sure what happened there, but the ganaches were a traditional Oaxacan dish I was wanting to try. You should definitely visit this Oaxacan restaurant for a taste of the Istmo.

Tizne

Location: Macedonio Alcalá #303

This restaurant and cafe is part of a group of businesses located on the main walking street. The covered courtyard is full of greenery. Tables line the perimeter with half walls that serve a dual purpose as privacy and gallery space for a variety of graphic art pieces.

The art continues at the accompanying businesses. Most prominently at the gallery space of Jacobo y Ángela who are well-known for their alebrije workshop in San Martin Tilcajete. There is also jewelry and pottery in the other surrounding businesses.

From above, a large triangular corn dough is plated topped with greens and served with a trio of salsas.

Instead of a menu del dia, they offer a “menu of the month” for 180 pesos. It is definitely in the higher price range but looks more interesting than is typical. It’s also available to order for dinner. Other menu items include a few breakfast items including savory French toast, a few Oaxaca classic snacks (think memelas, quesadillas, and tetelas), as well as dinner appetizers, entrees, and cocktails.

I ordered the tetela, which from my experience is a super soft corn dough in the shape of a triangle. This version was one large tetela layered inside with Hoja Santa leaves, cheese, and pureed black beans. It lived up to my previous experience of tetelas being soft, yet rustic.  The pleasant surprise was the thick greens of purslane, delicate cilantro criollo, and thinly sliced radishes on top. The hearty texture of the purslane was an incredible pairing with the softness of the tetela.

Almú

Location: San Martín Tilcajete

As you walk into this space, your attention is immediately drawn to the open kitchen. Large heavy pots are simmering over the fire while a woman cooks fresh tortillas on the large comal. In the dining area, thick wooden tables are surrounded by plants before transitioning to the small greenhouse area.

At Almu Restaurant, small vases of flowers sit on the large wooden table surrounded by plants.

The menu is traditionally Oaxacan and reasonably priced for a dining experience that I would describe as elevated rustic. Afterward, make time to explore the surrounding grounds of the reforestation project. This impressive undertaking was started by Jacobo and Maria Angeles who operate one of the most well-known alebrije workshops in San Martin.

This is one of the few Oaxaca restaurants on this list located outside of centro. If you’re visiting San Martin Tilcajete as one of my highlighted day trips from Oaxaca, I highly recommend stopping here for lunch or an early dinner.

Read Next – Oaxaca Mezcal Tour: An Ancestral Experience

High End Restaurants in Oaxaca

I’ve broken this section off from the traditional restaurants in Oaxaca to separate those at a higher end and higher price point. The food is often traditional but creative. The result is three of my favorite places to eat in Oaxaca.

Ancestral Cocina Traditional

Location: José López Alavez #1347, Xochimilco

Dried roasted beets on top of a salad of interesting greens at Ancestral Restaurant.

Built alongside the old aqueducts in the neighborhood of Xochimilco, this Oaxaca restaurant feels like walking into the patio of a Oaxacan country home. The floor is paved in bricks, frequently pausing to make room for the various trees and tropical foliage planted throughout. 

To start I was served an amuse-bouche of thin crispy tortillas alongside a firm cheese laced with jalapenos and a small dish of salsa picante.

The menu at Ancestral is so inspiring that it’s difficult to decide what to order. Since I wanted to try different things, I decided on several appetizers. The highlight was the aguachile de tasajo. The presentation in and of itself was over the top. And the herbaceous flavor did not disappoint. 

At one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca, the open molcajete reveals aguachile de tasjo marinating in a bright green liquid topped with garnishes.

It’s served in a molcajete topped with a very thin toasted maize top that slightly resembles a tortilla. The top is garnished with chipotle mayonnaise, tightly rolled cucumber slices, and long fronds of cilantro. The server recommended I use a utensil to break it open and reveal the thin slices of tasajo enveloped in a bright green citrusy liquid underneath.

At the neighboring table, I witnessed the table service of the fish of the day. The server used a spoon to scoop out the marrow of the large roasted bone served on the side. It made me wish I was dining with more people so that we could share more of the creative dishes at Ancestral. 

Levadura de Olla

Location: Murguía #304

This is another restaurant whose incredibly interesting menu beckons you to order an array of plates to share with your table. The menu revives traditional dishes of Oaxaca, some of which might otherwise be forgotten. It is divided into sections, including ceremonial dishes, ancestral dishes, and creative dishes.

The quaint patio at Levadura de Olla is one of my favorite places to eat in Oaxaca. The string lights and wooden tables create a romantic atmosphere that is perfect for a date night. There is also indoor seating, under terracotta arches, and an opportunity to sit in front of the open kitchen. Prices are higher than average but more affordable than more popular, touristic fine dining restaurants in Oaxaca.

Perhaps most interesting is the mission behind their menu. Levadura de Olla is a self-described Oaxacan project that showcases the ceremonial cuisine of the indigenous pueblos. The ingredients for their dishes come from the same towns in which the dishes originate. And on Fridays, they sell products from the region that you can use to cook yourself. In a city with such amazing food, I struggle to name the best restaurant in Oaxaca, but this one is certainly at the top.

Baltazar Tetelas y Mezcal

Location: Jesús Carranza #113

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The food at Baltazar is inspired by the eight regions of the state of Oaxaca. The afternoon menu (1 pm to 6 pm) consists mostly of tetelas which are triangular shaped corn dough stuffed with beans, cooked on a comal, and loaded with various toppings. And the morning menu (8 am to 1 pm) also features a few tetelas more suitable for breakfast as well as some standard dishes.

I use the word dough because the best tetelas are fluffy and delicate. There are several vegetarian options on the menu as well as a tasting of your choice of three different tetelas. The Sierra Norte featuring tasajo, grilled miltomates, and poleo herb stood out to me. It was flavorful and well-balanced. 

The restaurant is located within Convite, a space created to promote the culture of mezcal. Their wide-open patio creates a delightful atmosphere to enjoy one of their various mezcals and mezcal cocktails, which is the only liquor you’ll find on the drink menu.

Creative Restaurants in Oaxaca

Boulenc

Location: Porfirio Díaz #207

You’ll almost certainly need to wait 15 minutes or more for a table at this popular restaurant and bakery. But it’s so totally worth it! The courtyard setting is dreamy. Sunlight filters through and lands on the yellow plastered walls that are peeling just enough to expose the turquoise underneath.

The specialty at Boulenc is “masa madre,” or sourdough, which is also used for their pizzas (available after 2 pm). And I was delighted to find a list of fermented beverages including kombucha, kefir, and beet kvass. The limonada with kvass was beautifully presented, as the deep red kvass was layered on top of the pale yellow limonada.

Let’s get to the important part – the food that everyone raves about. I love a banh mi sandwich and their vegetarian version may just be the best I’ve ever had. I’ve come to realize a sandwich can only be as good as the bread in which it’s layered between. That’s not to say that the other ingredients don’t matter. They do. They do very much.

As I bit into this beauty of a sandwich, the crispy outside of the baguette gave way to the crunchy house-pickled carrots, cucumbers, and sauteed mushrooms layered inside. Then my tongue was hit with the flavor of roasted serrano chilis, and later cooled by creamy avocado. To top it off, it’s served with a side of fresh sauerkraut with arugula.

As far as the rest of the menu, it’s large and varied. They serve breakfast until 1 pm which includes a spicy Shakshuka that I’m sure is amazing. There are also other sandwiches, tostadas, salads, and pizza. Be sure to step inside their bakery next door before you leave.

Calabacitas Tiernas

Location: Porfirio Díaz #1105

The menu at Calabacitas Tiernas leans heavily vegan and vegetarian, with separate sections for each as well as a handful of salads. There are also sections with seafood, pasta dishes, and a curry chicken. I find their menu unique and varied with just a few Mexican-inspired dishes.

Intrigued by the use of hibiscus flowers, I chose the tacos dorados. Two of the rolled fried tacos were stuffed with the flowers which were stewed in guajillo chile. The other two were stuffed with mashed ripe plantains. They were then smothered in guacamole, pureed black beans, and fresh cheese.

While you’re there, check out the health food store in front which sells also some bulk items.

Onno Loncheria

Location: Mártires de Tacubaya #308

This intimate cafe feels spacious with touches of modern industrial design. In addition to typical coffee drinks, they also have a rich iced coffee with cacao. The menu consists of non-Mexican breakfast items, sandwiches, and salads. 

I ordered the sauteed mushroom sandwich with goat cheese and arugula. The crispy baguette was the perfect vehicle for the thinly sliced, flavorful mushrooms. It comes with a side of crispy potato chips, or you can request a side salad for just a few pesos more.

A sandwich of sauteed mushrooms, goat cheese, and greens on a baguette and served with chips at Onno Loncheria.

The other dishes I saw coming out of the kitchen looked just as decadent. Additional sandwiches include a pulled pork sandwich served on brioche, a BLT with avocado, and chicken with tzatziki. The breakfast items range from french toast to fruit and yogurt. Before ordering, I was already making plans to return for one of their kale salads, one of which takes the form of a chicken caesar.

Read Next – 11 Best Places for Brunch and Breakfast in Oaxaca

El Quinque

Location: Miguel Hidalgo #218-A

Colorful art hangs on the walls at El Quinque Restaurant which has the best burgers in Oaxaca.

When you walk into El Quinque, their house specialty is on full display in the form of a giant monochromatic mural of a hamburger cooking over flames and surrounded by the hills of what I presume is Oaxaca. I’ve repeatedly heard this is the best burger in Oaxaca, but their burgers are not only of the meat variety.

I ordered a delicious portobello burger. It was piled high with grilled zucchini, sugar snap peas, roasted red peppers, and stewed tomatoes. On the side was the perfect amount of French fries, house-made pickles (yum!), lettuce, tomato onion, and avocado. I couldn’t even attempt to pick up this monster of a burger. 

The vegetarian burger at El Quinque, loaded with vegetables and a side of french fries.

The server proudly announced that all of their salsas are also made in-house. According to the reviews, the salsas are fabulous with their appetizer of fried cheese balls. The minimal decor is rounded out with more eclectic art on the walls of this funky restaurant in Oaxaca. And bonus, it’s just a couple of blocks away from one of my favorite hostels in Oaxaca.

Santa Hierba

Centro Location: Vicente Guerrero #401

This restaurant is part of the co-working space, Céntrico. It’s modern, yet inviting. In the front is a small market to purchase fruits as well as nuts and grains in bulk.

The menu is wide-ranging and creative with just a handful of classic Mexican dishes. Most of the options are fairly healthy, with quite a few vegetarian dishes. Think of an impressive looking avocado toast with housemade beet hummus, a cauliflower teriyaki bowl, and a zucchini pasta tossed in pesto.

A croissant sandwich on a rectangular plate with a small side salad from Santa Hierba Restaurant.

I was drawn to the croissant sandwich because of the roasted beets. They were thickly sliced and added a nice flavor. But the spicy avocado sauce on the table took the sandwich to the next level. The small accompanying salad was a pleasantly varied mix of lettuces which were tossed in a delicious balsamic dressing. Santa Hierba has a second location in Jalatlaco here, Hidalgo 104B, Jalatlaco

El Pochote Rayón Mercado Orgánico

Location: Rayón #411

This restaurant space consists of a shared patio with three different restaurants and tables tucked between. Between the three menus, there is a wide variety of options with some overlap. Most dishes lean towards healthy with options to include salad and vegetables.

The coconut shrimp were coated in large shreds of coconut, the sweetness of which paired beautifully with the spicy creamy avocado salsa on the table. I opted for sauteed veggies which were delicately julienned and served underneath. The side salad was impressive as well – a hearty mix of lettuces, carrots, mango, beet, and shaved jicama. I ate every bite!

La Rambla Antojeria

Location: Reforma #406

This seafood focused restaurant is part of a modern food hall with various cuisines. There are options for pizza, sushi, traditional food from the Istmo region, and more. As well, there are venues selling craft beer and mezcal.

A plate of three breaded fish tacos with shredded purple cabbage, cilantro, and lime at La Rambla Restaurant in Oaxaca.

I came here at the suggestion of a friend and it did not disappoint. While we waited for our food, I watched the chefs work in the kitchen and noticed acute attention to detail. For me, the star was the Tostada “La Brava.”

It’s a crispy tortilla piled high with shrimp that were lightly cooked, ceviche style, and accompanied by red onion, mango, cucumber, habanero, and topped with crunchy peanuts. My friend ordered the Baja-style shrimp tacos which were a solid choice. Large shrimp were breaded in beer tempura, fried, and served in flour tortillas with cabbage and salsa.

Read Next – Amazing Tours and Day Trips From Oaxaca City

Best Menu del Dia in Oaxaca

Casa Taviche

Location: Miguel Hidalgo #1111

If you’re looking for a gourmet menu del dia, you should make plans for lunch at Casa Taviche. The three-course meal is on the higher end at 110 pesos, but its value is immediately evident in the flavor and beautiful platings. The covered patio with a retractable roof is also pleasantly decorated with lots of green plants.

While you won’t know the menu of the day ahead of time, they always seem to find a way to include a healthy amount of vegetables on each plate. During my visit, the first course of chileatole rojo – a soup of chile and corn masa – was topped with squash blossoms, radish, sprouts, and green onion tops. 

At Casa Taviche, the main course is a round plate with large pieces of vegetables, a small bowl of rice and pork ribs in a sauce.

The second course of ribs was served with a side of perfectly cooked vegetables – thick cuts of carrot and chayote squash topped with sprouts and thin slices of radish. Dessert was heavenly for this non sweet lover – a light mango mousse sprinkled with caramelized sunflower, amaranth, and chia seeds. The perfect cap to a delicious meal.

The regular menu also changes by the day and typically mirrors the menu del día. It also includes classics like tlayudas, tinga tostadas, and mole amarillo with the option of more unusual ingredients such as portobello mushrooms on the tlayuda. The table next to me decided to share a few items from the regular menu and all I can say is wow, I was equally impressed. Casa Taviche is also open for dinner and the drink menu includes beer, mezcal, and wine.

Restaurante El Pipe

Location: Pino Suárez No. #410

The motto at this restaurant is “cocina con gusto,” which roughly translates to “kitchen with taste.” And I would argue that is an accurate description.

In the mornings they serve fairly standard breakfast dishes. And beginning at 1 pm, they have a rotating menu del día that includes three main dish options – usually a choice of chicken, fish, and another meat. It’s one of the more expensive menus, at 120 pesos, but the price is warranted by the flavors

When I was told the first course was consomé de pollo, essentially chicken soup, I wasn’t too excited. But as I lifted the first spoonful to my mouth, I saw it was also full of vegetables. Their freshness was evident in the vibrant colors. And the broth was incredibly flavorful.

I opted for the Chiles en Nogada seeing as it was the last day of September – the month to eat this national dish, which I had yet to try in over three years of being in Mexico. Again the depth of flavors and the eloquent, creamy almond sauce blew me away. This is definitely an elevated menu del dia in Oaxaca, with a chef that clearly has a passion for good food.

Santo Sabor

Location: Murguía #510

Santo Sabor offers a breakfast buffet from 9 am to 1 pm for a very reasonable price of 70 pesos for adults and 50 pesos for children. Afterward, they switch over to a menu del dia which is posted on their Facebook page around the same time. 

For 80 pesos, the menu offers a lot of options to choose from. The first course typically consists of your choice of soup, salad, or other small plates to start. The main course menu has five or six options, of which one is usually vegetarian. The menu also includes dessert and the flavored water of the day.

I chose the stuffed chile de agua which was full of flavor and shredded chicken. It was served on a small serving of pureed beans with rice and a small salad. The first course of pureed vegetable soup was quite satisfying. And even though I’m usually not big on dessert, the chocolate pudding was a perfect end to the meal.

Cheap Eats in Oaxaca

Don Juanito

Location: Manuel Bravo #216

The specialty at Don Juanito is tacos al vapor which are essentially tacos that have been steamed. The result is a soft, slightly sticky rolled taco. I appreciated the suppleness that steaming imparts on the corn tortillas. The fillings are traditional, including pastor, arrachera, and suiza. One of the highlights was the two salsas – one a creamy avocado base and the other a very flavorful, spicy green salsa.

They are also known for pozole, which the table next to me ordered and looked quite delicious. The atmosphere is modest but fresh. Most of the tables in this traditional restaurant are located in the central courtyard of an old colonial building with golden harvest color walls and ceiling fans pushing fresh air throughout.

Tlayudas de Ánimas

Location: Matamoros #203

After ordering a tlayuda and cerveza, an older gentleman dropped off a small container and was delighted to announce that it was “salsa chile de agua oaxaqueña con tomate.” Intrigued, I showed my interest by asking him to repeat it and then quickly saved it in my phone so that I wouldn’t forget. 

You may have noticed that Oaxacans are proud of their regional specialties. And one ingredient prevalent on a few menus is chile de agua. It’s a complex and aromatic chili pepper that has slightly less heat than a jalapeno. It is typical of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca and is often stuffed with meat and cheese. 

A handwritten chalkboard menu sits on the floor in front of a collage of family photos.
A large tortilla is stuffed with cheese and other ingredients and folded in half to form a tlayuda.

Okay, back to the tlayudas. The handwritten menu consists of a variety of tlayuda fillings including tasajo or chorizo, a combination of the two, enmolada (mole negro) with and without meat, vegetarian or vegan. I decided on a tlayuda chileajo which is a variety of vegetables in a spicy, garlicky red sauce. For non-tlayuda lovers, there are also tacos, tostadas, and tortas with various fillings including cochinita pibil and beans with cheese.

This family run operation has the feeling of a street cart stand placed inside a covered patio. With the addition of a handful of tables placed in front of a large altar. In fact, it’s important to note that they are only open Thursday through Saturday evenings when the other businesses surrounding the patio are closed. 

Tlayudas Doña Luchita

Location: Av. de la Independencia #1503

When I arrived, my nose was greeted by the rich and smoky aromas coming from the large grill. Similar to Tlayudas de Ánimas, this tlayuda restaurant also has the feeling of a street cart placed under a large metal roof – simple and efficient. 

The menu includes the traditional Oaxaca tlayuda options like tasajo and chorizo as well as some specialties that look interesting. But it was the marinated chuleta de res that caught my attention. And it was delicious – thin, salty, and fatty beef, perfectly grilled to create crispy edges along the bone it was still attached to.

The tlayuda itself was pretty standard, perhaps a little heavy on cheese, but I think the best part is the use of the grill. It crisps the outside of the large tortilla, flavors the meats, and causes you to salivate while you wait for your meal to be prepared.

The tlayudas are served with pickled onion, radishes, lime, and the pungent chepiche herb. Amazingly they are available in two sizes which is not immediately apparent by looking at the menu (the smaller versions are on the right under “minis”). I happily ordered a mini tlayuda and was pleased with the size and price. You can also order tostadas or tortas if you’re looking for a smaller dish.

La Popular

Location: Manuel García Vigil #519

As the name suggests, this place gets really popular, so much so that they’ve opened a second location down the street. And it’s a solid restaurant where you can sit down and order some cheap food to soak up your night of mezcal. 

I recommend that you stick to the basics here. The cochinita pibil torta was incredible, especially with the addition of the bowl of pickled onions and herbaceous green salsa. I imagine the tacos, quesadillas, and tlayudas are equally as good. 

There is a section of the menu with several mushroom dishes that honestly sound a lot better than they look. I would describe them as mushroom caps with a glob of melted cheese. Made infinitely better smothered in the same green salsa, but still boring nonetheless. 

Their main dishes of meat served with rice and salad also didn’t sound exciting to me, which was later confirmed when I saw a plate on another table. The location is fabulous, centrally located on a corner with both doors open to the street. Every time I pass by there is such lively energy emanating through those doors.

Taquería Tacomer

Location: Av. de la Independencia #1505B

At Taquería Tacomer, each evening starts with a fresh trompo (a vertical rotating spit) loaded with seasoned pork and topped with pineapple. Similar to prices you’d find at a street cart, this is one of the best values for tacos at a restaurant in Oaxaca (10-12 pesos). The menu also includes meat combination plates, quesadillas, and a hearty pozole. 

From above, a plate of three different tacos in Oaxaca - pastor, chorizo, and bistec sits on top of the menu at Taquería Tacomer.

I ordered one taco each of chorizo, bistec, and pastor. By far the best was the pastor tacos which had beautifully marbled, flavorful pieces of pork inside. Their accompaniments are also delicious – three different salsas as well as a bowl of tomatoes, onions, and jalapenos, and another of pickled onions with habanero.

Oaxaca Barbacoa

Barbacoa de Horno, Escamoles, y Gusanos

Location: Carr. Internacional #408, Santa Lucía del Camino

When I read that this restaurant cooks barbacoa de borrego in the style of Hidalgo, I immediately put it on my list. I arrived to find gusanos de maguey (mezcal worms) sizzling on the hot comal. The server confirmed they have barbacoa (traditionally only served on Sundays) every day, though only after 10 am during the week.

Colorful decorative flags and bright table cloths adorn the outdoor space at a restaurant for Barbacoa in Oaxaca.
A plate of shredded barbacoa de borrego tacos sit on a colorful Mexican tablecloth.

The tacos were rich in flavor and filled with so much barbacoa meat, I easily could have ordered just one taco to accompany the consome. The server offered me gusanos, which provided a salty crunch to the tacos. This restaurant also serves quesadillas de escamoles, or ant larvae, which is traditional in central Mexico.

The covered patio is full of colorful tablecloths and decor. It is located along the highway so it’s not exactly quiet, but it was a pleasant atmosphere. To get there, take a red combi taxi from the baseball stadium in the direction of Tule for about 12 pesos. You’ll need to watch the map to know when to ask to get off. Ask, “Puedo bajar aquí?” They will drop you off on the other side of the highway which has a large median to allow you to cross.

Comedor Familiar San Antonio

Location: Tercera Cerrada de Abraham Castellanos, Santa Rosa

A cute sheep is painted above the blue lettered sign of this barbacoa restaurant. Orange accents are below, with a bright blue sky and clouds behind.

Eating at Comedor Familiar San Antonio is a family affair. When I arrived on a Sunday morning, the forty or so tables under the warehouse style roof were bustling with families, small and large. On the right, four women were pressing and cooking tortillas on the comal, each of which was heated by its own wood fire burning underneath.

This barbacoa is in the style of Nochixtlán, a small town in Oaxaca. It’s served with masita. I think masita is best described as similar to polenta or grits, though the size of the corn is more similar to pozole. 

My server, Vania, was a delight. As soon as I sat down, she brought six bowls – a salsa verde, salsa roja, guacamole, lime, chopped onion with cilantro, and a bowl of thinly sliced red onion and habaneros. I let her know I wanted to order a small bowl of consome with barbacoa tacos. She recommended a paquete and then asked if I wanted it with sangre (blood). I hesitantly agreed on trying a little.

The consome was full of garbanzos, green beans, and all the parts of the sheep that fell off while cooking – skin, fat, and other bits. And I love the combination of barbacoa with masita, though I could have left the sangre for others.

To get here, take a bus going in the direction of Santa Rosa. You can get off at the Bodega Aurrera located along the highway. From there it’s a short walk. Alternatively, you can take a taxi.

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